Project NSR

If you already read  Shiny bits shiny (pt. 1 of 100)  this blog entry won't be full of many twists or turns. Or will there? After the painfully long experience of polishing the left rearset, I finally got round to sorting out the right. Polishing wasn't my only job here though as this side also features the rear brake (as if you didn't know) but on the pluss side there isn't a heel plate, saving my some polishing at least. I had managed to remember to pick up some Autosol this time as well so the polishing process would be allot easier that the usual wet and dry system I had used on the left. I am away from my  main computer and seem to have saved all of the most recent pictures on there. So save this one starting image on the right hand side I have nothing to show for the work I have done. I'll update this in September with all of the images. The starting place is the same as before: Strip down the foot rest hangar, clean it up and work at removing...

When I looked down into the airbox and saw that thin coating of grime along the intake trumpets I knew cleaning the carbs was a good plan. I had already whilled the airbox off and cleaned all of that gunge off with degreaser leaving me a better view of the carbs themselves. With the trottle held open you could see browny gold wax deposits on the needles that could only mean bad things through the rest of the carb. Mind you the bike ran fairly well so on the other hand it couldn't be that bad could it? NSR World  have a great walk through on breaking down the carb on the MC18-21 bikes. Althought eh cars on the MC28 are different they are pretty similar so this was a good reference to help if I got stuck later on when trying to put this all together. So with the confidence inspired by a few reference photographs and the guidance from the website above, I cracked on with removing all the throttle cables, choke cable and various hoses. Two cross head screws held the clamps do...

You know when you can't see something but you know it's there and you know its not quite right? Well that's how I felt about my NSR's subframes. They were far from ghastly but they were spotted with corrosion from where wiring looms had rubbed and heavy handed toolmanship had chipped away at the old paint. So having raided Halfords for some paints I took all of the subframes off of the bike. I have seen and liked the Tyga clock stay and front fairing subframe but I still decided to spray the originals. I have seen a forum post where someone managed to snap their Tyga clock stay during disassemble (sorry couldn't find a link), putting me off that a little and for the time being it was worth tidying up the original parts whilst I already had the paints out. The first job was to remove all of the corrosion and old paint. This I achieved with a couple of wire brush bits on the end of my drill and smoothed off with some wet and dry. With all of the parts off and ...

During the run up I had noticed that I had some rather funky goings on with my indicators. My fronts were permanently on only going out when that sides indicator was selected and the rears were flashing on the wrong sides. that was if they worked at all as they were pretty intermittent. As I was stripping down the bike I took a look at the wiring under the tail unit. All the wiring was connected up correctly yet I was still getting a back to front indication.  I disassembled all the connections A took the time to polish the little brass connectors to reduce resistance in the system and put it all back together again. I tried swapping the wiring round, leaving the common earth as it is and swapping the live wires. Success!  Everything worked as it should but why only when the wiring was plugged in incorrectly?  This was baffling for 10 seconds longer than it aught to be when I realized the indicators had just been installed on the wrong sides by the importer. So ...